Let’s not tell lies, we know that the Fashion sector is not going through it very well. Some of the leading international luxury brands have experienced a fall in turnover in the first half of 2017 compared to the first half of 2016 and Malo, just to report an example, well-known high-end cashmere brand, has requested admission to the arrangement procedure quotation with reserve at the Court of Florence.
National consumption has been stagnant for some years now and at the same time exports are constantly growing, on the other hand the Italian distribution system has undergone considerable transformation in the last decades.
Just think about a few decades ago when in Italy the distribution of clothing and leather goods was in the hands of the boutiques, which held a market share of about 50%, today this share has drastically reduced, reaching 20% in 2016.
The chains and outlets have taken the place of expensive and old boutiques, although it must be said that compared to 2015, many brands have had to close several stores and that the turnovers of the outlets are decreasing, even as a result of the digital development, purchases online in the Fashion sector, in fact, have recorded exponential growth.
A positive note, if this can be considered, gives us Inditex (a Spanish group that controls Zara, Pull & Bear and Bershka), which recorded an increase of 9% in the first half of 2017 compared to the same period of 2016.
Someone who still spends on clothing then is there still? Absolutely, the data are clear: luxury suffers in favor of fast fashion and low-cost. And how could it be otherwise with skyrocketing unemployment rates?
In a context that is anything but happy, how can young designers emerge?
In fact, young talents face numerous obstacles to emerge and get noticed by the Fashion System stakeholders: buyers, showrooms, fashion bloggers, journalists, stylists and web influencers; as well as making headway in a certainly not thriving market.
Of course there are the competitions organized by the fashion organizations that give space only to the lucky few, there are also trade fairs, but the latter have, sometimes, prohibitive costs for young designers who invest their savings to make their first collections .
As I said, the period of crisis that is facing the sector is added to the aforementioned difficulties and so buyers and showrooms do not want to risk investing in names not known by the market, with the result that the selection becomes increasingly widespread and the lack of dialogue between young designers and stakeholders in the sector is another brake on the possibility of success in the fashion world.
Here is the birth of a new project INTERNATIONAL FASHION SHOW NIGHT OUT, whose goal is the implementation of an effective communication plan that can allow young talents to get noticed by the market and that can guide them and support them in the choice of media more suitable and effective; in essence, with this project the “time to market” is decidedly reduced through the presentation of the new collections to all the stakeholders of the Fashion System (sector press, fashion blogger, buyer and show room).
The first edition of this new project took place at the NYX Hotel in Milan on 23 September 2017, the first edition organized by PM Management under the patronage of the Camera Helvetica della Moda.
On September 23rd I was invited to the first edition of this project, during which two fashion designers were selected: the Swiss TANIA CARUNCHO (attending the Istituto Marangoni) and the Romanian JULIA RUSO (NABA), accompanied on the catwalk by the jewels of the Italian Maison BLEVIO JEWELS.
Tania is the founder of the CARUNCHO COUTURE Brand “Caruncho Couture arises from the curiosity for the unknown, from the need to face the challenges encountered along the path of our lives. Caruncho Couture is a brand that wants to convey strength and audacity. “(Cit. T.C.)
Who is Tania Caruncho? Tania is a young woman who, without having any school base in the fashion industry, has put herself into play by creating a Capsule SS 2016 presented in Lugano, Campione d’Italia, Rome, Sanremo and Modena, winning three prizes: Due Swiss fashion Award and an Art and Fashion award in Sanremo. After winning the Swiss Fashion Award on April 16th 2016, Tania decided to attend the Marangoni Institute of Milan with the aim of perfecting her technique.
Passionate about fashion from an early age, she decided to attend an art school and art history courses, thanks to which she discovered a world completely new to her, especially after having known abstract art.
“Abstract art is implicit, that is, it is necessary to have basic knowledge about the artist in order to understand his works. And this is what also happens in fashion. If there is no knowledge, it can not be appreciated and understood “(Cit. T.C.)
The creations of Caruncho Couture tell us: “Let’s show ourselves for what we are, we do not use the dress as armor, let’s use it to show off our inner space. Let us be transparent and clear not invisible! “(Cit. T.C.)
The SS 2018 collection presented at the International Fashion Show Night Out clearly expresses the contrasts between cultures. From the observation of the clothes one perceives the search for the perfect balance with minimal forms that enter into symbiosis with decorations belonging to a culture based entirely on the Horror Vaqum. The shapes, colors and decorations are made taking inspiration from design objects and architectures that exploit artificial or natural light.
The SS 2018 collection signed Julia Rusu presented at the International Fashion Show Night Out inspired by a “Decadent Lolita”, is a tribute to the past golden age elegantly mixed with a grown Lolita to represent a mature woman. Innocence is eroded by the nightmare and the darkness, where the melancholy, the shiver and the mystery typical of a noiresque film give life to a Decentente Lolita. The feminine silhoutte is in evidence thanks to deep and sensual necklines, lace and transparencies that hide the soft shapes of women.
To accompany on the catwalk during the parade the clothes I showed you the jewels of BLEVIO JEWELS.
The Brand comes from the story of an ancient legend of the enchanting town of Blevio overlooking Lake Como: it tells of a beautiful princess awakened by a spell after wearing a ring engraved with the word LOVE found in a fountain in the locality by Blevio …
From the legend of the Blevio ring, combined with the skilful Italian goldsmith tradition, the Brand Brevio Jewels was born, whose jewels are entirely created in Italy, paying the utmost attention to the smallest details, with a modern and refined design.
The “SEGRETI” collection presented at the event is the collection with which the Maison was created, it is a collection made up of rings and pendants with an original crown design.
The particularity of this collection is that words and letters are revealed through pierced hearts: turning the central part of the jewel appears the word LOVE or the name of the loved one or that of the spouses.
The next project by Blevio Jewels is the creation of a new collection, whose name will be “DIVA”, jewels inspired by the splendid ’50s want to convey serenity, elegance and confidence in the future.
(THE IMAGES ARE NOT INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY OF THE AUTHOR OF THE BLOG)